Sunday, August 4, 2013


We spent about six days in Kerala--most of it in Kochi (Ft. Cochin area), but also some time in Alleppey (where we took a houseboat around the backwaters overnight) and Kumarakom.

In Ft. Cochin, we encountered our favorite simple restaurant; we would visit it three times during our short stay. Dal Roti served delicious kati rolls and also pretty good North Indian dishes.

Paneer and egg kati roll:

Chicken tikka kati roll:

Mutton kati roll:

Palak paneer, chicken keema (chopped by hand, so in larger pieces and saucier than we're used to, and chana masala:

Ramesh, the owner, is super-friendly and incredibly accommodating. More than once, he expressed alarm that we were ordering too much food (he was right), and at one point suggested that he give us half portions of the stuff we'd ordered, at a reduced price (we still couldn't finish):

Fort House restaurant (used to be called Arca Nova) at the Fort House hotel (we didn't stay there, just went to eat). Kerala red rice (super fluffy), appams (steamed rice breads), coconutty shrimp, and coconutty chicken curry:

We arranged our houseboat through our guesthouse (Palmy). The food was awesome.

Fried river fish, thoran (cabbage with fresh-grated coconut, carrot, and urad dal), green beans with crunchy fried coconut pieces, and sambar:

Super-spicy pakoras for teatime:

At Theravadu Heritage Home in Kumarakom, an egg roast (basically hardboiled eggs in onion-tomato curry) and steamed banana with puttu (steamed rice/coconut) for breakfast:

At the HYPERMARKET at the Lulu mall in Ernakulam, we saw dozens of mango, date, and pickle varieties, and bought some coconut halwa and jaggery halwa...but not any of the piranha.

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